Linen Through the Ages: From Prehistory to French Elegance

The Origins of Linen: A Textile Older Than History Itself

Linen is among humanity’s earliest cultivated fibres, predating both cotton and wool. Archaeological findings suggest its usage as early as 36,000 BC, during the Paleolithic era, where flax fibres were manually processed. However, it was during the Neolithic period, around 10,000 years ago, that woven linen textiles began appearing in more structured forms, used for clothing and ritual.

By 8,000 BC, linen was deeply integrated into Egyptian culture — appreciated for its natural whiteness, resistance to decay, and spiritual symbolism. It dressed pharaohs and embalmed the dead. By 3,000 BC, it had spread across the Mediterranean basin, with the Phoenicians introducing it to Europe around 1,700 BC.

The Evolution of Linen Cultivation in Europe

From the Fertile Crescent to Western Europe

Linen cultivation was gradually adopted throughout Europe thanks to the ideal conditions of temperate climates and fertile loamy soils. As early as the 6th millennium BC, archaeological evidence confirms the presence of linen textiles and flax seeds in ancient European settlements.

The Phoenicians acted as key intermediaries, and by 100 BC, linen farming began to take shape in Gaul, the region that would later become France.

The Medieval Renaissance of Linen

Under the reign of Charlemagne in the 8th and 9th centuries, flax cultivation became a royal initiative. By the High Middle Ages, regions such as Flanders, Brittany and Anjou rose as major hubs of linen production.

The Lys Valley, straddling northern France and Belgium, became a commercial epicentre, exporting high-quality linen to England, Italy and beyond. By the 13th century, linen had become a staple of everyday European life, used for sheets, undergarments, and artisanal fabrics.

Decline and Modern Revival

The 19th century witnessed a sharp decline in linen use with the rise of industrialised cotton production. Cotton's mechanisation made it more economically viable, pushing linen into the margins.

It wasn't until after World War II that linen saw a revival, particularly in Normandy, thanks to Flemish farmers and mechanisation. Today, the European linen industry thrives, particularly along the coastal corridor from Caen to Amsterdam.

France: The Global Leader in Linen Production

France alone accounts for approximately 60-65% of global flax fibre production. Alongside Belgium and the Netherlands, Western Europe produces nearly 80% of the world’s linen.

What sets European linen apart is its sustainability: it requires no irrigation, uses minimal pesticides, and is processed locally. This makes it an environmentally friendly fibre, celebrated for its durability and refined aesthetic.

Explore our collection of linen bags — a timeless blend of function and elegance, crafted from the finest French flax.

How Domestication Transformed Linen into a Luxury Fibre

The domestication of wild flax (Linum bienne) was pivotal. Early varieties had fragile, short stems and seed pods that would burst open naturally, reducing fibre yield. Over millennia, selective breeding led to longer, stronger stems and indehiscent capsules that retained seeds — ideal for both textile and seed oil applications.

Today, two major cultivars exist:

• Fibre flax, developed for long, spinnable stems.

• Oilseed flax, bred for nutrient-rich seeds.

Genetic Improvements for the Textile Industry

Modern agronomic techniques have significantly increased fibre yield and quality:

• Fibre content has risen from under 30% to over 35% per harvest.

• Advanced cultivars reach fibre densities of 40%, with greater resistance to fungal diseases.

• These fibres now serve luxury fashion, automotive composites, papermaking, and eco-construction.

Thanks to these advances, French linen continues to evolve — beautifully marrying heritage with innovation.

Why Charvet Édition Represents the Pinnacle of European Linen Craftsmanship

A Heritage of Excellence Since 1866

Based in Armentières, northern France, Charvet Édition is a historic weaving house that has maintained traditional textile mastery for over 150 years. Their linen is not only woven but also fully designed and crafted in France, offering unparalleled quality assurance.

Ethical, Local and Sustainable

Charvet sources its flax from Normandy, ensuring low-impact, high-quality production with minimal carbon footprint. Their linen is:

• Free from GMOs.

• Grown without irrigation.

• Produced using responsible practices that honour centuries of craftsmanship.

Innovation Rooted in Tradition

Charvet offers an impressive array of linens — from home textiles to professional-grade fabrics for hotels and restaurants. Their modern textile labs work hand-in-hand with traditional looms, ensuring performance and elegance in every thread.

Adorn your tables with the same care and refinement: discover our exclusive table linen collection, inspired by the time-honoured expertise of French artisans.